So you’ve decided to buy a campervan. Whether you’re dreaming of weekend escapes to Cornwall or planning a Scottish Highlands adventure, owning your own van opens up a world of freedom.

But buying a used campervan isn’t quite like buying a regular car. You’re not just purchasing a vehicle; you’re buying a home on wheels, complete with gas systems, electrical installations, and living spaces that all need careful inspection.

At Quirky Campers, we’ve been connecting people with handcrafted campervans for over fifteen years. We’ve seen brilliant conversions and we’ve seen disasters. This guide shares everything we’ve learned about what to check before handing over your hard-earned cash.

We’ve split this checklist into two parts: what you can verify before you even see the van, and what to inspect when you’re standing in front of it.

Part One: Checks You Can Do Before Viewing

Before you travel halfway across the country to view a campervan, there’s plenty you can verify from your sofa. These checks could save you a wasted journey.

Free Government Checks

Start with the basics that cost nothing:

MOT History

Every vehicle over three years old needs an annual MOT. You can check the full MOT history free at gov.uk/check-mot-history. Look for:

• Consistent mileage progression (watch for suspicious drops)
• Recurring advisories that might indicate ongoing problems
• The current MOT expiry date
• Any dangerous or major faults from previous tests

The MOT history tells a story. A van that’s sailed through every test is encouraging. One with repeated failures for the same issue suggests a problem the owner hasn’t properly fixed.

DVLA Vehicle Enquiry

The DVLA’s free vehicle enquiry service confirms:

• The vehicle is taxed and has a valid MOT
• The recorded colour matches what’s advertised
• The engine size and date of first registration
• Whether it’s currently registered as SORN

Paid Vehicle History Checks

A comprehensive vehicle history check typically costs between a few pounds and £30, depending on the provider. This reveals:

• Outstanding finance (you could lose the van if the previous owner stops paying)
• Insurance write-off status
• Stolen vehicle markers
• Number of previous keepers
• Mileage discrepancies

Understanding Write-Off Categories

If a vehicle has been written off, it will be recorded under one of these categories:

• Category A: Scrap only. The vehicle should never return to the road.
• Category B: The shell must be crushed, but parts can be salvaged.
• Category S: Structural damage that has been repaired. Can be driven but may affect value and insurability.
• Category N: Non-structural damage that has been repaired. Cosmetic or mechanical issues only.

Note: Before October 2017, the categories were different (C and D instead of S and N), so older write-offs may show these legacy codes.

A Category S or N write-off isn’t necessarily a deal-breaker, but it should significantly affect the price, and you’ll want evidence of professional repairs.

V5C Registration Document Verification

Ask the seller to send photos of the V5C (logbook). Check:

• The 11-digit document reference number in the watermark matches the printed number
• V5Cs have been red since 2012. A green or blue one is outdated.
• Section D.5 shows the body type. More on this below.
• The registered keeper details match who you’re buying from

Never buy a campervan without seeing the V5C. “It’s in the post” is a red flag.

Weight and Driving Licence Considerations

This catches people out. Check the Maximum Authorised Mass (MAM) on the V5C.

If you passed your driving test after 1 January 1997, your standard Category B licence only covers vehicles up to 3,500kg MAM. Many larger motorhomes and heavily converted vans exceed this.

If the campervan weighs more than 3,500kg, you’ll need a Category C1 licence, which requires an additional test and medical.

Also consider the payload: that’s the MAM minus the vehicle’s unladen weight. A van might be legal to drive, but once you add passengers, water, gas bottles, bikes, and camping gear, you could be overweight. Weigh it loaded if you’re unsure.

Assessing Conversion Quality from Photos

Good listing photos can tell you a lot about a conversion before you visit. Look for:

• Workmanship: Are edges finished neatly? Do doors and drawers align properly?
• Materials: Solid wood and proper upholstery suggest quality. Cheap laminate and fabric that’s already fraying don’t.
• Layout practicality: Can you actually move around? Is the bed a sensible size?
• Ventilation: Can you see opening windows, roof vents, or extraction fans?

If the photos are poor quality or avoid showing certain areas, ask for more. Reluctance to provide detailed images is concerning.

If you’re unsure what quality looks like, browse our converter directory to see the standard professional builders achieve.

Part Two: The In-Person Inspection

You’ve done your homework and the van looks promising. Now it’s time to see it in person. Allow at least two hours for a proper inspection. Bring a torch, a notepad, and ideally a friend with mechanical knowledge.

Exterior Inspection

Work your way around the van systematically:

Bodywork

• Run your hand along panels feeling for filler or ripples indicating accident repairs
• Check panel gaps are even. Misaligned panels suggest previous damage.
• Look for rust around wheel arches, sills, and door bottoms
• Inspect the roof, especially around skylights, vents, and aerial mounts
• Check all seals around windows and hatches

Underneath

Get down and look under the vehicle. You’re checking for:

• Rust on the chassis and floor
• Oil or fluid leaks
• Damage to the exhaust system
• Condition of brake lines and fuel lines
• Any bodged repairs or temporary fixes

The Damp Check

Damp is the silent killer of campervans. Water ingress causes wood rot, mould, and electrical problems that are expensive to fix.

A pin-type damp meter is essential. You can pick one up from most DIY shops. Test multiple points on all walls, around every window, and across the floor. Pay particular attention to corners and areas around roof vents.

Understanding Damp Meter Readings

• 0-15%: Normal. Wood at this moisture level is fine.
• 15-20%: Slightly elevated. Worth monitoring but not necessarily problematic.
• 20-25%: Concerning. Investigate the source. There may be a leak that needs addressing.
• 30% and above: Serious moisture issue. Water is getting in somewhere.

If you find elevated readings, trace the source. Common culprits include failed window seals, cracked roof vents, and compromised body seams.

Also trust your nose. Musty smells suggest damp even if readings seem acceptable.

Habitation Area Inspection

Work through every element of the living space:

Furniture and Fittings

• Open every cupboard and drawer. Check hinges and runners.
• Sit and lie on seats and beds. Do they feel solid?
• Check the table mechanism if it has one
• Look for signs of water damage on any timber

Water System

• Run all taps and check for leaks underneath
• Fill and drain the fresh water tank
• Check the water pump operates correctly
• Inspect the waste water system
• If there’s a shower, test the drainage

Heating

• Run the heating system and verify it works properly
• Check for any unusual smells when operating

Gas Safety Inspection

Gas installations in campervans must meet BS EN 1949:2021, the European standard for LPG systems in recreational vehicles.

The MOT doesn’t cover gas safety at all, so don’t assume a valid MOT means the gas system is safe.

A properly installed gas system should have:

• Sealed gas locker: The gas bottles should be in a dedicated compartment, sealed from the living area, with a drop vent at the lowest point so any leaked gas (which is heavier than air) escapes outside.
• Correct ventilation: Low-level and high-level vents in the habitation area
• Carbon monoxide alarm: This is a legal requirement for any recreational vehicle with a fixed combustion appliance

What to Check

• Are the gas bottles secured upright and easily accessible?
• Is the regulator appropriate for the setup?
• Can you see any visible damage to pipework?
• Do all gas appliances ignite properly and burn with a clean blue flame?
• Is there a gas isolation valve you can easily reach?

Getting Professional Verification

If you’re buying a van to use privately, a Gas Safe certificate isn’t legally required, but it’s strongly recommended. For peace of mind, arrange an inspection by a Gas Safe registered engineer who holds the “CARAVANS pipework LAV LPG (CORE)” qualification. You can verify engineer credentials on the Gas Safe Register website.

If you’re planning to rent out your campervan through a platform like ours, you will need a Landlord’s Gas Safety Certificate. This must be renewed annually and is a legal requirement under the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998.

Electrical System Inspection

Campervans typically have two electrical systems: the vehicle’s 12V system and a separate leisure battery system that may include 12V DC and 230V AC mains hookup.

Leisure Battery

Ask to see the leisure battery voltage with the van at rest (not connected to mains or charging). For lead-acid batteries:

• 12.6-12.7V: Fully charged and healthy
• 12.4V: Approximately 50% charged
• Below 12V: Discharged or failing

Note this applies to standard lead-acid leisure batteries. Lithium batteries work differently.

Check the battery age if possible. Lead-acid leisure batteries typically last three to five years with proper care.

12V System

Test all 12V equipment: lights, water pump, USB ports, any 12V sockets. Proper campervan 12V installations should meet BS EN 1648-2:2018.

Look at the wiring. Neat, labelled cables in appropriate gauges suggest professional work. A rat’s nest of different coloured wires with electrical tape joins is a red flag.

230V Mains System

If the van has mains hookup, the 230V system should meet BS 7671 (the IET Wiring Regulations). Look for:

• A proper consumer unit with RCD protection
• Correctly rated sockets
• An isolation switch
• Professional-quality connections throughout

If there’s any doubt about the electrical installation, have it inspected by a qualified electrician before purchase.

Mechanical Inspection

Don’t get so distracted by the campervan bits that you forget it’s also a vehicle.

Engine Bay

• Check oil level and condition
• Look at coolant level and colour
• Inspect for any leaks or corrosion
• Check belt condition
• Look at the air filter

Test Drive

A proper test drive is essential. Take it on A-roads and motorways if possible.

• Does it start easily?
• How does the clutch feel?
• Are the brakes effective and smooth?
• Any unusual noises from the engine, gearbox, or suspension?
• Does it track straight or pull to one side?
• How does it handle at motorway speeds?

Pay attention to the dash. Warning lights that come on during the drive need investigating.

Service History

Ask to see the service history. Regular maintenance by reputable garages is reassuring. Long gaps or no history is a concern, especially on diesel vehicles where things like cambelt changes are critical.

The V5C Body Type Question

You might notice the V5C says “Panel Van” or “Motor Caravan” in Section D.5.

For insurance purposes, what matters is how you use and insure the vehicle. Many insurers specialising in campervans will cover converted vehicles regardless of what the V5C says. Companies like Adrian Flux and Alan Boswell insure based on the actual vehicle specification, not just the V5C body type.

However, if the conversion meets DVLA requirements for Motor Caravan classification and you want the V5C changed, the vehicle must have:

Internal requirements:

• A bed (or seats that convert to a bed)
• A table
• Seating
• Cooking facilities
• Storage

External requirements (at least two of):

• Two or more windows on at least one side
• A separate entrance door to the living area
• Graphics or signwriting indicating campervan use
• An awning bar or rail
• A high-top or elevating roof (pop-tops don’t qualify)

If you’re unsure whether a V5C change is necessary or beneficial for your situation, speak to specialist campervan insurers directly.

Making Your Decision

Once you’ve completed your inspection, you’ll have a clear picture of the van’s condition. Some issues are deal-breakers. Others are negotiation points.

Walk away if:

• There’s evidence of undisclosed accident damage
• The gas system appears unsafe
• Damp readings are seriously elevated throughout
• The seller can’t provide documentation
• Something feels wrong

Negotiate on:

• Minor repairs needed
• Items that require replacement soon (tyres, batteries)
• Missing documentation that can be obtained

Don’t let enthusiasm override common sense. There will always be other vans.

Still Deciding What You Need?

If you’re not sure exactly what type of campervan suits you, consider hiring first. Spending a week in a van reveals what features actually matter to you, from cosy two-person conversions to family-sized motorhomes.

Browse our campervans for hire across the UK, whether you’re starting from London,Bristol, or Edinburgh.

When you’re ready to buy, explore our campervans for sale marketplace, where every listing has been reviewed for quality.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a special licence to drive a campervan?

If you passed your test after 1 January 1997, your standard licence covers vehicles up to 3,500kg MAM. Larger motorhomes require a Category C1 licence.

Is a gas safety certificate legally required?

For private use, no. For renting out your van, yes. A Landlord’s Gas Safety Certificate must be renewed annually.

What damp meter reading is acceptable?

Readings of 0-15% are normal. Above 20% warrants investigation. Above 30% indicates a serious problem.

Should the V5C say Motor Caravan?

Not necessarily. Many insurers cover converted panel vans regardless of V5C classification. Check with specialist campervan insurers.

Can I check MOT history for free?

Yes. Visit gov.uk/check-mot-history with the registration number.

What’s included in a vehicle history check?

Outstanding finance, write-off status, stolen vehicle markers, previous keeper count, and mileage discrepancies.

How do I know if the gas installation is safe?

Have it inspected by a Gas Safe registered engineer with the appropriate caravan/LPG qualifications. The MOT doesn’t cover gas safety.

What voltage should a healthy leisure battery show?

A fully charged lead-acid leisure battery should read 12.6-12.7V at rest. Below 12V indicates discharge or failure.

Should I get a professional inspection?

For peace of mind, consider a mechanical inspection from a service like the AA or RAC, particularly for higher-value purchases. Gas and electrical systems should ideally be checked by qualified professionals if you have any doubts.

Where can I find reputable campervans for sale?

Our campervans for sale marketplace features quality conversions. For bespoke builds, browse our converter directory.